Quick Answer (30-Second Read)

Don't restore anything. Original condition is worth more than "improved" condition.

Most "improvements" destroy value:

• Refinishing: -40-60% value loss

• Replacing pickups: -20-40% value loss

• Refretting: -15-30% value loss

• Polishing hardware: Removes authentication markers

Simple rule: For guitars worth $1,500+, don't touch anything. Get expert evaluation first.

Value Impact Table (What NOT to Do)

Decision Framework: What Should I Do?

What NEVER to Do (Value Destroyers)

❌ Never Refinish

The math that destroys value:

Why refinishing destroys value:

1. Original finish = irreplaceable authentication

2. Sanding removes wood thickness

3. Collectors pay premium for worn original over perfect refinish

4. Even perfect refinish screams "modified"

5. Natural aging cannot be replicated

Exception: Guitar already poorly refinished (can't hurt it twice, won't help much either)

❌ Never Remove Patina or Polish Hardware

What sellers think: "I'll make it shiny!"
What actually happens: You destroy authentication markers

Leave alone:

• Tarnished tuning machines

• Aged bridge saddles

• Oxidized pickup covers

• Worn nickel plating

• Green oxidation on metals

• Any natural aging

❌ Never Replace Original Parts

Even worn original parts > new replacement parts

Critical: All-original guitar vs. partially modified = 40-60% value difference

Exception: If you kept original parts (even removed), include with sale - reduces but doesn't eliminate impact

❌ Never Refret Before Selling

The refretting trap:

Why not:

• Original fret wire proves authenticity

• Wear patterns tell guitar's story

• Shows it was played (not fake)

• Period-correct fret size matters

• Buyers want to control their repairs

Exception: Completely unplayable (frets missing) AND worth under $1,000 AND sold to players not collectors

❌ Never "Fix" Finish Checking

Finish checking = valuable, not a problem

Can't fix without refinishing (which destroys value)

Don't try to:

• Fill cracks

• Apply finish over checking

• Sand or level surface

• Use furniture polish to hide

• Any attempted "repair"

❌ Never Over-Clean

The cleaning disaster:

Safe limit: Soft dry microfiber cloth, gentle dust removal, no pressure, that's it.

For $1,500+ guitars: Don't even dust it yourself

The Economics Nobody Explains

Example 1: Refinishing Disaster

Example 2: "Upgrading" Parts

Example 3: Setup (Sometimes OK)

What TO Do Instead

Step 1: Document Current Condition

Take comprehensive photos:

• [ ] Front, back, sides (full guitar)

• [ ] Headstock front & back (serial number)

• [ ] Every angle of body

• [ ] Close-ups of any issues (cracks, wear, checking)

• [ ] Hardware details (tuners, bridge, pickups)

• [ ] Inside (soundhole/f-holes)

• [ ] Any labels, stamps, markings

Why:

• Creates condition record

• Helps remote appraisals

• Documents originality

• Insurance purposes

Step 2: Get Expert Evaluation

Free appraisal from specialist:

• Learn exactly what you have

• Current market value

• Specific guidance: "Should I do anything?"

• No obligation

What expert will tell you:

• Whether cleaning/setup helps or hurts

• Value impact of any issues

• Best selling strategy

• Honest originality assessment

Step 3: Ask Specific Questions

Don't assume. Ask:

• "Should I change strings?"

• "Should I clean this dirt?"

• "Should I repair this crack?"

• "Should I get setup?"

• "Will refinishing help?" (Answer: NO)

Get guidance for YOUR specific guitar

Step 4: Be Honest About Condition

When listing:

• [ ] Disclose all issues clearly

• [ ] Let photos show reality

• [ ] Describe modifications/repairs honestly

• [ ] Mention non-original parts

Why honesty matters:

• Buyers value transparency

• Hidden issues = deal falls through

• Returns/disputes cost time

• Reputation matters

Rare Cases When Work Makes Sense

✅ Basic Setup ($75-150)

When justified:

• Guitar completely unplayable (neck bowed, action at 1/2 inch)

• Prevents proper testing

• Guitar worth UNDER $1,000

• Done by experienced professional (not Guitar Center)

What setup includes:

• Truss rod adjustment

• Bridge height adjustment

• Intonation setting

• Nut slot adjustment if needed

What it should NOT include:

• Fret work

• Part replacement

• Finish work

• Aggressive cleaning

Value equation:

• Cost: $75-150

• Value added: $0

• Benefit: Buyers can test playability

• Worth it? Sometimes for unplayable guitars

✅ New Strings (Rarely)

When to restring:

• Strings decades old AND broken/missing

• Guitar worth under $1,000

• Use period-correct gauge/type

• KEEP old strings (in case)

Why keep old strings:

• Gauge tells historical setup

• Aging/corrosion dates guitar

• Brand indicates era

What strings:

• Research period-correct gauge

• Round core if pre-1970s

• Pure nickel for vintage electrics

• Heavier gauge if uncertain

✅ Gentle Cleaning (Only If Necessary)

When OK:

• Heavy grime prevents evaluation

• Guitar worth under $1,000

• Test product in hidden area first

• Use guitar-specific products only

How to clean safely:

1. Identify finish type

2. Test in hidden area (back of headstock)

3. Wait 24 hours

4. Light application only if test passes

5. For $1,500+: DON'T clean yourself

✅ Professional Restoration (Very Rare)

When it might make sense:

• Guitar already damaged (broken headstock, major crack)

• Damage prevents sale or dramatically reduces value

• Guitar worth $5,000+

• Done by reputable vintage-specialized luthier

• Get detailed estimate FIRST

Even with perfect restoration:

• Headstock repair: -30-50% value

• Major crack repair: -20-40% value

• Refinish (even perfect): -40-60% value

Math rarely works: Restoration cost + reduced value usually exceeds selling as-is

Structural Issues: Sell As-Is or Repair?

Cracks and Splits

Why as-is often better:

• Many buyers PREFER to control repair

• Specialist buyers buy guitars with issues

• Repair cost + value reduction = net loss

Broken Headstock (Common on Gibsons)

Buyer preferences:

• Professionally repaired > unrepaired (usable)

• Unrepaired > amateur repair (can be done right)

Best approach:

• Get quote from reputable luthier

• Calculate: repair cost + post-repair value vs. as-is

• Often: sell as-is, let buyer decide

Loose Frets

Don't re-glue or hammer:

• Leave alone unless literally falling out

• Buyer will address based on their plans

• Amateur repair makes it worse

Special Cases

Modern Guitars (Post-1980)

Different rules apply:

For guitars made after 1980:

• Setup often adds value (playability expected)

• New strings recommended

• Light cleaning appropriate (finishes more durable)

• BUT: Still avoid major modifications, refinishing, part replacement

Why different:

• Not vintage collectibles (yet)

• Player market vs. collector market

• Playability > originality

• Finishes more durable

Guitars Already Modified

If guitar has been:

• Already refinished

• Parts already replaced

• Modified for playability

• Not all-original

Then:

• Further modifications less damaging

• Focus on playability vs. collectibility

• Different market (players vs. collectors)

• Setup, refret, upgrades make more sense

But still: Get value assessment BEFORE spending

Very High Value Guitars ($10,000+)

For investment-grade instruments:

• Don't even dust yourself

• Professional conservation only

• Specialist luthier for any work

• Insurance documentation first

• Every detail affects substantial value

Even minor mistakes cost thousands:

• Wrong cleaning product: -$2,000

• Over-polishing hardware: -$1,500

• Adjusting without expertise: -$3,000

The "Don't Touch Anything" Rule

For Guitars Worth $1,500+:

DO NOT:

1. Clean beyond gentle dry cloth dusting

2. Change strings (old strings date guitar)

3. Adjust truss rod, action, intonation

4. Apply any products anywhere

5. Remove parts to "check them out"

6. Touch up finish imperfections

7. Tighten or loosen anything

WHY this strict:

• Old strings = authentication info

• Setup tells how it was played

• Changes remove valuable clues

• Professionals extract more info from untouched

• You might damage accidentally

WHAT TO DO:

1. Leave exactly as found

2. Take photos

3. Get expert evaluation FIRST

4. Let expert tell you if anything should be done

Decision Checklist

Ask These Questions:

1. What's the guitar worth?

• Under $500 → Basic cleaning/setup probably OK

• $500-$2,000 → Get advice first

• Over $2,000 → Don't touch, expert evaluation immediately

2. Is it vintage (pre-1980)?

• YES → Extreme caution, original = valuable

• NO → More flexibility

3. Is it 100% original?

• YES → Don't modify anything

• NO → Damage already done

• UNSURE → Assume yes until verified

4. Cost vs. potential value gain?

Simple math:

5. Why do I want to "fix" it?

Wrong reasons:

• "Looks bad to me" (collectors want authentic wear)

• "I want it perfect" (perfect ≠ valuable for vintage)

• "It'll sell faster" (sells slower - collectors avoid refinished)

Right reasons:

• "Unplayable, can't be evaluated" (setup makes sense)

• "Expert said this specific repair helps" (trust expert)

Conclusion: When in Doubt, Don't

Safest approach: Leave exactly as found

Get free expert appraisal BEFORE touching anything

At Edgewater Guitars, we'll tell you honestly:

• "Don't touch it - perfect as-is"

• "Basic setup would help buyers test"

• "That refinish would destroy $4,000 in value"

• "This crack should be repaired, here's why"

We'd rather save you from expensive mistake than make quick buck

Most of the time: Don't do anything. Sell as-is.

Get Your Free Expert Appraisal

Before you clean, refinish, repair, or modify:

Call (440) 219-3607 or contact us online

We'll evaluate and give honest guidance:

• What you have

• Current value as-is

• Whether any work helps or hurts

• Best approach for YOUR guitar

No obligation. Just honest expert advice.

We've seen too many sellers destroy thousands trying to "help" their guitar. Don't be one of them.

FAQ

Should I refinish my vintage guitar before selling?

No. Refinishing destroys 40-60% of value even with professional work. A $6,000 Les Paul with original worn finish becomes worth $2,500-3,500 after refinishing. Collectors pay premium for original finish regardless of condition.

Should I replace worn parts before selling?

No. Original worn parts worth more than new replacements. Even sloppy tuners, weak pickups, worn frets should stay original. Replacing original parts reduces value 40-60% because collectors want 100% original.

Should I clean my vintage guitar before selling?

Only minimal cleaning with soft dry cloth. Don't use polishing compounds, harsh cleaners, or remove patina from hardware. Aggressive cleaning destroys original finish and aging that proves authenticity. For $1,500+ guitars: don't clean at all.

When does restoration make sense before selling?

Rarely. Exceptions: basic setup ($75-150) when completely unplayable and worth under $1,000, or professional structural repair when already damaged and worth $5,000+. Even then, repair cost plus value reduction often exceeds benefit.

Does finish checking reduce value?

No. Finish checking (fine cracks in nitro lacquer) is normal on vintage guitars and proves age/originality. Collectors specifically look for natural checking. Don't attempt to fix or hide - it adds value, not reduces it.

Should I refret before selling?

No. Original frets prove authenticity and shouldn't be replaced. Refretting costs $300-600 and adds zero value to collector guitars. Wear patterns on original frets tell the guitar's story.