How Old Is My Guitar? Complete Dating Guide for Vintage & Used Guitars

Quick Answer: To determine your guitar's age, start by locating the serial number (on the back of the headstock for most electrics, inside the soundhole on acoustics, or on the neck plate for Fenders 1954-1976), then cross-reference with manufacturer dating systems. However, serial numbers alone are often unreliable—you should also check neck date stamps, potentiometer codes (electronics dating), body stamps, and construction features. Pre-1970 American-made guitars (Gibson, Fender, Martin) can be dated within a few months using multiple verification methods, while post-1970 guitars use more standardized systems. Professional authentication is recommended for potentially valuable vintage guitars, as accurate dating is critical to determining value—a 1959 vs. 1961 Gibson Les Paul can mean a dramatic value difference that makes proper authentication essential.

If you've inherited a guitar, found one in storage, or are simply trying to understand what you own, one of your first questions is likely "How old is this guitar?" The age of your guitar is critical to understanding its value—especially for vintage instruments where a single year can mean the difference between a moderately valuable instrument and an extremely valuable collector's piece.

Dating guitars can be complex. Unlike cars with clear VIN systems, guitar manufacturers used inconsistent serial number systems, changed formats multiple times, and often applied serial numbers that don't match actual production dates. Some guitars have no serial numbers at all. Others have serial numbers that were reused or applied out of sequence.

This comprehensive guide will teach you how to accurately date any guitar using multiple verification methods, understand which dating clues to trust and which to treat skeptically, identify valuable vintage guitars by their age, and avoid the costly mistakes that destroy value.

At Edgewater Guitars, we've dated thousands of vintage instruments throughout Ohio and the Midwest. We've seen every dating challenge imaginable—missing serial numbers, conflicting dates, transitional features, and forgeries. This guide represents everything we've learned about accurately determining guitar age.

What you'll learn:

• Where to find serial numbers on every major brand

• How to decode serial number systems that changed multiple times

• Why serial numbers alone are often wrong or misleading

• Alternative dating methods (neck stamps, pot codes, body stamps)

• How to date guitars with no serial numbers

• Which years are most valuable for each major brand

• Real case studies of misdated guitars (and the value impact)

• When professional authentication is worth the investment

Let's start with the most common dating method—serial numbers.

Understanding Guitar Serial Numbers: The Foundation (and the Problems)

Serial numbers are the first place most people look when dating a guitar—and that's both right and wrong.

Why Serial Numbers Matter

Serial numbers provide valuable information:

Production dating:

• Indicates approximate manufacturing period

• Helps narrow down year or year range

• Starting point for further research

• Verifies guitar isn't anachronistic (claimed 1959 with 1975 serial)

Authentication:

• Serial number format specific to manufacturers and eras

• Font, location, and application method vary by period

• Inconsistent with claimed year = red flag for forgery

• Absence where expected can indicate refinishing

Factory records:

• Some manufacturers kept detailed logs

• Serial numbers occasionally link to specific orders

• Can reveal original specifications

• May document special features or custom orders

Why Serial Numbers Are Often Misleading

The fundamental problem: guitar serial numbers were never designed as dating systems. They were production tracking tools, and manufacturers applied them inconsistently.

Common serial number problems:

1. Numbers applied before or after assembly:

• Parts manufactured with serial numbers, assembled months later

• Necks stamped in 1962, guitar completed in 1963

• Bodies numbered in advance, used years later

• Serial number reflects part date, not completion date

2. Systems changed frequently:

• Manufacturers switched numbering systems without notice

• Overlapping systems during transition periods

• Different factories used different systems simultaneously

• No standardization across industry

3. Numbers reused or duplicated:

• Same serial numbers appear on guitars from different years

• Gibson used duplicate serial numbers in different eras

• Fender restarted numbering systems multiple times

• Creates ambiguity requiring other dating methods

4. Out-of-sequence numbering:

• Numbers not always applied sequentially

• Lower numbers sometimes later than higher numbers

• Batches numbered separately

• Special runs used different sequences

5. Missing or relocated during refinishing:

• Refinished guitars often lose original serial numbers

• Fake serial numbers added during refinishing

• Numbers sanded away during headstock repairs

• Relocated numbers (moved from bridge to headstock, etc.)

6. Inconsistent application methods:

• Ink stamps (fade or wear away)

• Impressed stamps (can be shallow, hard to read)

• Engraved (occasionally altered or re-engraved)

• Decals (can be replaced or forged)

The solution: Never rely on serial numbers alone. Always cross-reference with other dating methods.

Serial Number Locations by Manufacturer

Before you can decode a serial number, you need to find it. Location varies dramatically by manufacturer and era.

Gibson Serial Number Locations

1952-1960 (Ink Stamp Era):

• Location: Back of headstock

• Format: 5-digit numbers (some 4-digit early)

• Application: Hand-stamped or hand-written in ink

• Issues: Often faded, smudged, or illegible

• Range examples:

  • 1952: 0xxx-2xxx

  • 1956: 5xxxx-6xxxx

  • 1959: 9xxxx range

1961-1975 (Impressed Number Era):

• Location: Back of headstock

• Format: 6-8 digit numbers, sometimes with letter prefix

• Application: Pressed/impressed into wood

• Issues: Can be shallow, hard to read

• Range examples:

  • 1961: 1xxxx

  • 1964: 4xxxx

  • 1970: 6-digit starting 500000+

1975-1977 (Transfer Number Era):

• Location: Back of headstock

• Format: 8-digit numbers

• Application: Decal/transfer

• Issues: Often reads "XXXXXXXX" with no actual number (production error)

• Known problem: Gibson used "000000" or "XXXXXX" placeholders

1977-Present (Modern Era):

• Location: Back of headstock

• Format: 8 digits, various formats

• Application: Impressed or stamped

• YYDDD format: YY=year, DDD=day of year

• Example: 90123456 = 1990, day 123

Gibson Factory Order Number (FON):

• Location: Inside control cavity or f-hole

• Visible: Must remove control cavity cover

• Format: Letter + digits

• More reliable: Often more accurate than headstock serial

• Example: "T 3622" = late 1959

Gibson Acoustic Labels:

• Location: Inside guitar, visible through soundhole

• Format: Orange label (1950s-early 1960s) or white label (1960s)

• Information: Model, serial number, sometimes date

Fender Serial Number Locations

1950-1954 (Early Era):

• Telecaster: Bridge plate stamped with number

• Stratocaster: No serial numbers initially (used neck dates only)

• Format: 4-digit numbers typically

1954-1976 (Neck Plate Era):

• Location: 4-bolt neck plate on back of guitar

• Format: 4-6 digit numbers stamped into metal plate

• Easy to find: Very visible on back of guitar

• Range examples:

  • 1954-1956: 4-digit (0001-9999)

  • 1957-1962: 5-digit (10000-99999)

  • 1963-1964: 5-digit with "L" prefix (L10000-L99999)

  • 1965-1976: 6-digit (100000-999999)

1976-Present (Headstock Era):

• Location: Front or back of headstock

• Format: Letter prefix + 5-6 digits

• Prefixes indicate decade:

  • S = 1970s-1980s

  • E = 1980s

  • N = 1990s

  • Z = 2000s

  • US = American-made

  • MX = Mexican-made

Fender Neck Date Stamps:

• Location: Heel of neck (where neck joins body)

• Visibility: Only visible when neck removed

• Format: Pencil or stamp: "MM-YY" or "Month-Year"

• Most reliable: More accurate than serial numbers

• Example: "8-59" = August 1959

Fender Body Dates:

• Location: Various (tremolo cavity, control cavity, neck pocket)

• Format: Pencil markings, often just dates or names

• Information: Body routing date, inspector marks, model codes

Martin Serial Number Locations

All years:

• Location: Neck block inside guitar (visible through soundhole)

• Visibility: Look through soundhole toward neck

• Format: Stamped into wood

• Additional marks: Model stamp (D-28, OM, etc.) often nearby

Martin Label:

• Location: Inside guitar (neck block or back)

• Format: Oval or rectangular paper label

• Information: C.F. Martin & Co., model, serial number

Martin Serial Number Dating:

• Sequential system: Numbers increase chronologically

• Relatively reliable: More consistent than Gibson/Fender

• Ranges:

  • 8,000-15,000 = 1898-1906

  • 45,000-58,000 = 1930s

  • 83,000-95,000 = 1940s

  • 145,000-175,000 = 1950s

  • 200,000-250,000 = 1960s

Other Major Manufacturers

Gretsch:

• Location: Varies (back of headstock, inside hollow bodies, label)

• Format: Various systems, changed multiple times

• Issues: Inconsistent; professional dating often needed

Guild:

• Location: Label inside acoustics, back of headstock on electrics

• Format: Generally sequential within eras

• Information: Often includes model and date on label

Rickenbacker:

• Location: Various (jackplate, back of headstock, neck plate)

• Format: Letter prefixes indicate year in some eras

• Example: A=1961, B=1962 (early system)

Epiphone (Pre-Gibson):

• Location: Label inside acoustics, various on electrics

• Format: Sequential numbers

• "New York" stamp: Critical indicator (pre-1957, very valuable)

How to Decode Gibson Serial Numbers

Gibson's serial number system is notoriously complex, with multiple overlapping systems and extensive reuse of numbers.

Gibson Serial Number Systems by Era

1952-1960: The Ink Stamp Era

Format: 5-digit numbers (occasionally 4-digit in early 1952)

General ranges:

• 1952: 0xxx-2xxx (approximately)

• 1953: 2xxx-4xxx

• 1954: 4xxx-5xxx

• 1955: 5xxx-6xxx

• 1956: 6xxx-7xxx

• 1957: 7xxx-9xxx (some overlap)

• 1958: 8xxxx (5-digit, restarted with leading "8")

• 1959: 9xxxx

• 1960: 0xxxx (restarted, leading "0")

Critical issues with this system:

Problem 1: Numbers reused

• 1952 guitars and 1960 guitars both have numbers starting with "0"

• Requires other dating methods to differentiate

• Example: "01234" could be 1952 OR 1960

Problem 2: Overlap between years

• 1957 and 1958 both have some "7xxxx" numbers

• 1959 and 1960 both have some "9xxxx" numbers

• Serial number alone insufficient

Problem 3: Ink fades

• 70-year-old ink stamps often illegible

• Numbers partially visible or completely gone

• Impossible to read without magnification and good lighting

How to verify 1950s Gibson serial numbers:

✓ Check Factory Order Number (FON) inside guitar ✓ Look for neck date stamps (if accessible) ✓ Examine pot codes (electronics date codes) ✓ Verify construction features match claimed year ✓ Look for appropriate aging consistent with age

Example authentication:

• Serial number: "9 2847"

• Could be: 1959 (most likely) or possibly 1969 (less likely given format)

• FON inside: "T 3891" = Late 1959 (confirms)

• Pot codes: "137-5929" = CTS, week 29 of 1959 (confirms)

• PAF pickups, correct hardware = 1959 confirmed

1961-1969: The Impressed Number Era

Format: 6-digit numbers impressed into wood

General system:

• 1961: Numbers starting with "1" (1xxxx)

• 1962: Numbers starting with "2" (2xxxx)

• 1963: Numbers starting with "3" (3xxxx)

• 1964: Numbers starting with "4" (4xxxx)

• 1965: Numbers starting with "5" (5xxxx)

• 1966: Numbers starting with "6" (6xxxx)

• 1967: Numbers starting with "7" (7xxxx)

• 1968: Numbers starting with "8" (8xxxx)

• 1969: Numbers starting with "9" (9xxxx)

This system seems straightforward, BUT:

Problem: Massive overlaps

• Numbers from 1963-1969 frequently overlap

• Same serial number can appear on guitars from different years

• Production delays meant parts numbered in one year, assembled in next

Problem: Out of sequence

• Later numbers don't always mean later production

• Batches numbered separately

• Different factories used different ranges

Example of overlap:

• Serial number "525XXX" appears on both 1965 AND 1966 guitars

• Serial number "827XXX" appears on both 1968 AND 1969 guitars

How to verify 1960s Gibson serial numbers:

✓ Check pot codes (most reliable for 1960s) ✓ Verify pickup types (PAF vs. patent number vs. T-Top) ✓ Examine hardware changes by year ✓ Look at logo style and headstock features ✓ Check construction details (volute added 1970, etc.)

1970-1975: The Chaos Era

Format: 6-8 digit numbers, various formats

This is Gibson's most confusing period:

• Multiple numbering systems used simultaneously

• "Made in USA" stamp appears on some

• Numbers with "A" prefix introduced

• Massive production increases = inconsistent tracking

• Some guitars from this era virtually impossible to date precisely

Common formats:

• 6-digit numbers continuing 1960s system

• "A" prefix numbers (A10XXXX to A49XXXX range)

• 8-digit numbers with various formats

• Some with "99" prefix

Dating 1970-1975 Gibsons:

• Serial number provides rough range only

• Pot codes CRITICAL for accurate dating

• Construction features (volute, neck dimensions, binding) important

• Often can only narrow to 2-3 year range

1975-1977: The "Number That Isn't There" Era

Format: Transfer/decal 8-digit number

The infamous problem: Gibson switched to decal serial numbers, but many guitars left the factory with:

• "00000000" as placeholder

• "XXXXXXXX" as placeholder

• Completely blank decal

• Partially applied number

If you have a 1975-1977 Gibson with "00000000" serial number:

• This is NORMAL for this era (not a fake)

• Can still date guitar using pot codes and features

• These guitars are authentic despite useless serial number

• Collectors understand this production error

1977-Present: Modern Numbering

Format: 8-digit impressed number (YYDDDXXX format)

How to decode:

• YY: Year (first 2 digits)

• DDD: Day of year (next 3 digits)

• XXX: Production sequence that day

Example:

• Serial number: 90278456

• 90 = 1990

• 278 = Day 278 of year (October 5)

• 456 = 456th guitar that day

• Date: October 5, 1990

This system is generally reliable for guitars 1977-present, with some exceptions:

• Early adoption period (1977-1979) has some confusion

• Quality control improved by 1980s

• Modern Gibsons usually dated accurately

Gibson FON (Factory Order Number) System

The FON is often MORE reliable than serial numbers for 1950s-1960s Gibsons.

Where to find FON:

• Inside control cavity (remove back plate)

• Inside F-holes on hollow bodies

• Written or stamped on internal surfaces

How to decode FON:

Format: Letter + 3-4 digits

Letter codes by year:

• Q = 1952

• R = 1953

• S = 1954

• T = 1955

• U = 1956

• V = 1957

• W = 1958 (early part)

• X = 1958 (late part)

• Y = 1958 (late part)

• Z = 1959 (early part)

• A = 1959 (middle/late)

• B = 1960

• C = 1961

• D = 1962

• E = 1963

Example:

• FON: T 3891

• "T" = 1955

• Wait, that seems wrong for the number range

• Actually: Multiple letter systems overlap

• Later decoding: "T" in 1959 = Late 1959

• (FON system also complex, but more reliable than headstock serial)

The benefit of FON:

• Less likely to be forged (inside guitar)

• More consistent with actual production date

• Cross-references with serial number for authentication

• Harder to alter during refinishing

How to Decode Fender Serial Numbers

Fender's serial number system is more straightforward than Gibson's—but still has significant complications.

Fender Serial Number Systems by Era

1950-1954: Bridge Plate Era (Telecaster)

Format: 4-digit numbers stamped on bridge plate

Dating:

• Numbers roughly sequential

• Low numbers = earlier

• Approximately 0001-5000 range

• No Stratocaster serial numbers yet (Strat introduced 1954)

Issues:

• Bridge plates often replaced

• Stamping can wear away

• Numbers not precisely sequential

1954-1963: Neck Plate Era (Simple Numbers)

Format: 4-5 digit numbers stamped on neck plate

General ranges:

• 1954-1956: 0001-9999 (4-digit)

• 1957-1958: 10000-40000 (5-digit)

• 1959-1962: 40000-90000 (5-digit)

This system is relatively reliable with some caveats:

• Numbers generally sequential

• Some overlap at year boundaries

• Neck dates more precise than serial numbers

• Parts sometimes assembled months after numbering

Example:

• Serial number: 35782

• Indicates: 1959-1960 range

• Neck date: "8-59" = August 1959

• Confirmed date: August 1959

1963-1965: "L" Series

Format: "L" prefix + 5-digit number

Why the "L":

• CBS acquisition approaching

• New production tracking

• Reached end of previous numbering system

General range:

• 1963-1965: L10000-L99999

Dating:

• L10000-L20000 = 1963

• L20000-L60000 = 1964

• L60000-L99000 = 1965

Critical value note: Pre-"L" series (pre-1963) often more valuable than "L" series, as CBS acquisition in 1965 marked quality changes.

1965-1976: CBS Era (100000+ Numbers)

Format: 6-digit numbers starting with "100000"

General ranges:

• 1965-1967: 100000-200000

• 1968-1969: 200000-300000

• 1970-1972: 300000-400000

• 1973-1975: 400000-600000

• 1976: 600000-800000

Major issues with this system:

Problem 1: Massive overlaps

• Same number range used across multiple years

• Number alone insufficient for accurate dating

• Must use other methods

Problem 2: Quality changes

• CBS era known for inconsistent quality

• Value often lower than pre-CBS

• Collectors prefer pre-1965 examples

How to date CBS-era Fenders: ✓ Serial number gives 2-3 year range ✓ Pot codes provide accurate dating ✓ Neck stamps help narrow down ✓ Hardware and logo changes indicate year ✓ Headstock size (large headstock = 1965+)

1976-Present: Letter Prefix System

Format: Letter(s) + 5-6 digits

Prefix meanings:

• S = 1970s-1980s (Seventies)

• E = 1980s (Eighties)

• N = 1990s (Nineties)

• Z = 2000s (2000)

• US = American-made (various years)

• MX = Mexican-made

• CY = China, Yako factory

• JD = Japan (domestic)

This system is MORE reliable for dating modern Fenders, though:

• Still some overlap

• Different factories used different systems simultaneously

• American vs. Import marked differently

Example:

• Serial number: E946752

• "E" = 1980s

• Additional research narrows to specific year

The Most Reliable Fender Dating Method: Neck Stamps

Neck date stamps are MORE accurate than serial numbers for vintage Fenders.

Where to find:

• Heel of neck (where neck meets body)

• Only visible when neck removed

• Requires loosening/removing strings and neck bolts

• Don't remove neck yourself on potentially valuable guitars

Format:

• Pencil written or stamped

• "MM-YY" or "Month-Year"

• Sometimes additional codes or names

Examples:

• "8-59" = August 1959

• "3-63" = March 1963

• "12-56" = December 1956

Why neck dates are more reliable:

• Applied during actual neck construction

• More closely matches completion date

• Harder to forge (inside guitar)

• Cross-references with serial number for authentication

If serial number and neck date disagree:

• Neck date usually correct

• Serial number may be from different part

• Could indicate replaced neck (reduces value)

• Professional authentication recommended

Alternative Dating Methods (When Serial Numbers Fail)

When serial numbers are missing, illegible, or unreliable, these methods provide accurate dating:

Potentiometer (Pot) Codes: The Most Reliable Dating Method

Potentiometers are electronic components inside your guitar's control cavity. They have date codes that are often THE most accurate way to date a guitar.

What are potentiometers:

• Volume and tone control components

• Cylindrical components with 3 terminals

• Located in control cavity (under back plate)

• Usually 2-4 pots per guitar

Where to find pot codes:

• Remove control cavity back plate (1-6 screws typically)

• Look at side of cylindrical pot casings

• Codes stamped into metal casing

• May need to move controls to see codes

Pot code format: XXXXYYZZ

Breaking down the code:

• XXXX: Manufacturer code

  • 137 = CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply)

  • 134 = Centralab

  • 304 = Stackpole

  • 615 = IRC

• YY: Year of manufacture

• ZZ: Week of year (1-52)

Example:

• Pot code: 137-6318

• 137 = CTS manufacturer

• 63 = 1963

• 18 = Week 18 (late April)

• Date: Pot manufactured April 1963

How to use pot codes for guitar dating:

Rule 1: Pots dated BEFORE guitar completion

• Pots manufactured, stored, then installed in guitars

• Guitar completion date = Pot date + assembly time

• 3-12 months after pot date is normal

Rule 2: Multiple pots should be close in date

• All pots usually from same manufacturing batch

• Within a few weeks of each other

• Different years on different pots = replacement (reduces value)

Rule 3: Guitar can't be older than newest pot

• If newest pot is 1963, guitar is 1963 or later

• Provides latest possible date

• Most reliable for narrow dating window

Example authentication: Guitar: Claimed 1959 Les Paul Serial number: 9 2XXX (consistent with 1959) Pot codes found:

• Pot 1: 137-5927 (CTS, week 27 of 1959)

• Pot 2: 137-5929 (CTS, week 29 of 1959)

• Pot 3: 137-5931 (CTS, week 31 of 1959)

• Pot 4: 137-5933 (CTS, week 33 of 1959)

Conclusion:

• All pots from summer 1959 (consistent)

• Guitar completed late 1959 or early 1960

• Cross-references with serial number

• Authentication: Late 1959 confirmed

Red flags from pot codes:

❌ Pots dated AFTER claimed guitar date

• Claimed 1959 guitar with 1975 pots = electronics replaced OR fake

• Major red flag for authenticity

❌ Mixed decades on pots

• One 1959 pot, three 1980 pots = partial electronics replacement

• Reduces value (not all original)

❌ Missing pot codes

• Some pots have no codes (quality varies by manufacturer)

• More common on import guitars

• Less reliable for dating

Body and Neck Stamps

Many manufacturers stamped dates or codes directly on wood:

Gibson body stamps:

• Inside control cavity

• Date stamps or inspector marks

• Model codes

• Sometimes just year

Fender body stamps:

• Tremolo cavity (Stratocasters)

• Control cavity

• Neck pocket

• Pencil dates, names, codes

Fender neck stamps:

• End of neck (butt)

• "TG" prefix codes

• Date stamps

• Model designations

Martin stamps:

• Model stamp on neck block

• Size designation (D, OM, 000, etc.)

• Serial number

• Sometimes date

How to find stamps:

• Remove control cavity covers

• Look in tremolo spring cavity (Strat back)

• Check neck pocket (where neck sits in body)

• Use flashlight and magnification

What stamps tell you:

• Body routing date

• Neck shaping date

• Inspector who worked on guitar

• Assembly date (sometimes)

• Model designation

Pickup Dating

Pickups often have date codes or identifiable features:

Gibson PAF pickups (1957-1962):

• "Patent Applied For" sticker (extremely valuable)

• No sticker on late examples (still PAFs)

• Long or short magnet variants

• Bobbin color (double black, zebra)

• Output resistance readings

• These alone can narrow date range

Gibson Patent Number pickups (1962-mid 1970s):

• Patent number sticker

• Replaced PAF stickers

• Indicates 1960s-early 1970s

• Less valuable than PAFs but still collectible

Fender pickup dates:

• Sometimes pencil dated on bottom

• Masking tape dates on coils

• Color codes (wire colors changed by era)

• Winding style visible through bottom

Dating by pickup type:

• P-90 (Gibson) = 1946-1957 on Les Pauls, later on other models

• PAF humbucker (Gibson) = 1957-1962

• Patent number humbucker = 1962-1974

• T-Top (Gibson) = 1970s

Hardware and Component Dating

Specific hardware features indicate manufacturing periods:

Tuners (tuning machines):

• Kluson single-ring = 1950s

• Kluson double-ring = late 1950s-1960s

• Grover Rotomatic = 1960s+

• Schaller, Gotoh = Modern

Bridges:

• Fender 6-screw tremolo = 1954-present (with variations)

• Gibson ABR-1 without wire = 1954-1956

• Gibson ABR-1 with retainer wire = 1957-1970s

• Specific saddle styles indicate eras

Knobs and switches:

• Gold "speed" knobs = Early 1950s Les Pauls

• Amber "top hat" knobs = 1950s-1960s Gibsons

• Black "witch hat" knobs = Late 1960s-1970s

• Specific switch types indicate eras

Cases:

• Pink or purple lining = 1950s

• Orange or red lining = 1960s

• Black lining = 1970s+

• Case style and logo indicate period

Construction Features and Changes

Manufacturing changes help date guitars:

Gibson:

• Unbound neck (1952-1953 Les Pauls)

• Bound neck (1954+ Les Pauls)

• Long neck tenon (1950s-1960s)

• Short neck tenon (1970s+)

• Volute on back of neck (1970-1981)

• 3-piece pancake body (1970s)

Fender:

• Single-ply pickguard (1954-1959)

• Multi-ply pickguard (1959+)

• Slab rosewood board (1959-1962)

• Curved rosewood board (1962+)

• Small headstock (pre-1965)

• Large headstock (1965+)

• 3-bolt neck (some 1970s)

• Bullet truss rod (1970s)

Martin:

• Scalloped bracing (pre-1940s)

• Non-scalloped bracing (1940s+)

• T-bar neck reinforcement (1934-1967)

• Adjustable truss rod (1985+)

Finish Type and Aging

Finish type indicates manufacturing era:

Nitrocellulose lacquer:

• Thin, transparent finish

• Develops checking (fine cracks) over time

• Ages to amber on blonde finishes

• Used pre-1968 typically

• Presence = likely vintage

Polyurethane:

• Thick, plastic-like finish

• Doesn't check or craze naturally

• Maintains color over time

• Started appearing late 1960s

• Standard by 1970s

Aging patterns:

• Natural checking indicates age

• Fading patterns indicate UV exposure over decades

• Wear in logical locations (forearm, back) indicates use

• Too-perfect finish on "vintage" guitar = suspicious

How to Date Guitars with NO Serial Numbers

Some guitars have no serial numbers—this doesn't mean they're worthless or fake.

Why Guitars Lack Serial Numbers

Legitimate reasons for missing serial numbers:

1. Pre-serial number era

   • Some manufacturers didn't use serial numbers until 1950s

   • Very early guitars identified by other means

   • Construction features and style indicate period

2. Budget/student models

   • Entry-level guitars often not serialized

   • Mass-produced imports

   • Store-brand guitars

3. Worn away or refinished

   • Ink stamps fade completely over decades

   • Refinishing removes original serial numbers

   • Headstock repairs remove numbers

4. Never applied

   • Some guitars left factory without numbers

   • Production oversights

   • Small manufacturers with informal tracking

5. Stolen serial number

   • Deliberately removed to obscure theft

   • Less common but possible

Dating Strategy for Unmarked Guitars

Use all available alternative methods:

Step 1: Identify manufacturer

• Body shape and style

• Logo or label (if present)

• Hardware styles

• Construction features

Step 2: Check pot codes

• Most reliable dating method without serial number

• Provides tight date range

• Multiple pots create confidence

Step 3: Examine all stamps and marks

• Body stamps

• Neck stamps

• Inspector marks

• Model codes

Step 4: Analyze hardware

• Tuner styles and stamps

• Bridge types

• Pickup styles and dates

• Control components

Step 5: Assess construction features

• Neck attachment method

• Binding styles

• Bracing patterns (acoustics)

• Wood types and figure

Step 6: Evaluate finish type

• Nitrocellulose vs. polyurethane

• Aging patterns

• Color characteristics

• Application quality

Step 7: Cross-reference everything

• All clues should tell consistent story

• Inconsistencies indicate issues

• Multiple methods increase confidence

Example: Dating unmarked Les Paul

Scenario: Gold-top Les Paul, no visible serial number

Investigation:

1. Body style: Carved top, single cutaway = Les Paul

2. No serial visible: Likely worn away or refinished

3. Pot codes: 137-5618 (1956, week 18) - All four pots consistent

4. Pickups: P-90s (correct for 1956)

5. Bridge: ABR-1 without retainer wire (correct for 1956)

6. Tuners: Kluson single-ring (correct for 1956)

7. Finish: Nitrocellulose with checking (correct for vintage)

8. Hardware: All components consistent with 1956

Conclusion: 1956 Les Paul Goldtop, likely refinished (explains missing serial), but all original components date to 1956

Value impact: Refinished reduces value vs. all-original, but still valuable 1956 Les Paul

The Most Valuable Years for Each Major Brand

Dating your guitar accurately matters because specific years command dramatic value premiums:

Gibson - The Golden Years

Les Paul Standard "Burst" (1958-1960):

• 1959: THE most valuable production guitar ever made

• 1958: Highly valuable, first year of cherry sunburst

• 1960: Last year of original burst production, very valuable

Why 1959 is THE year:

• Peak flame maple tops

• Slightly slimmer neck than 1958

• Perfect PAF pickups

• Last year of ideal construction before changes

Les Paul Goldtop by year:

• 1952-1953 (trapeze): Very valuable early examples

• 1954-1956 (Tune-o-matic): Highly collectible

• 1957 (early PAF): Premium for PAF pickups

Flying V and Explorer:

• 1958-1959 (Korina): Among most valuable guitars ever made

• 1962-1963 (reissue): Still extremely valuable

ES-335:

• 1958-1959 (PAF, dot): Most valuable ES-335 period

• 1960-1962 (PAF, dot): Highly valuable

• 1962-1965 (patent, block): Very collectible

SG/Les Paul:

• 1961-1963 (with "Les Paul"): Premium for transitional models

• 1963-1965 (SG Standard): Valuable vintage examples

Fender - The Pre-CBS Premium

The critical date: 1965 = CBS acquisition = quality changes

Stratocaster values by era:

• 1954-1956 (early): Most valuable Stratocasters

• 1957-1958 (two-tone): Highly valuable pre-CBS

• 1959-1962 (slab board): Premium for thick rosewood

• 1963-1965 (pre-CBS): Last of original era

• 1965-1975 (CBS): Significantly less valuable

Value multipliers on Stratocasters:

• Custom colors: Dramatically increase value

• Matching headstock: Substantial premium

• All original components: Major value addition

• Stack knob (1960-1961): Rare and valuable

Telecaster values by era:

• 1950 (Broadcaster): Extremely rare and valuable

• 1951 (Nocaster): Highly sought transitional model

• 1951-1954 (black guard): Early production premium

• 1955-1959 (white guard): Valuable pre-CBS examples

• 1960-1965 (pre-CBS): Collectible vintage Telecasters

Bass values:

• 1951-1956 (single-coil P-Bass): Early bass premium

• 1957-1959 (split-coil, gold guard): Highly collectible anodized era

• 1960-1965 (P-Bass or J-Bass): Valuable pre-CBS examples

• 1960-1961 (Jazz Bass stack knob): Rare and highly valuable

Martin - Pre-War is King

Pre-war Martins (before 1946) command enormous premiums:

D-45 Pre-War:

• 1933-1942: Among most valuable acoustic guitars

D-28 Herringbone:

• 1931-1946: Highly sought after by collectors

OM-28:

• 1929-1933: Short production run = valuable

Post-war Martins (Brazilian rosewood era):

• 1946-1969: Valuable for Brazilian rosewood

The critical date: 1969/1970 = Switch from Brazilian to Indian rosewood

• Brazilian rosewood guitars significantly more valuable

• Indian rosewood = Still good guitars, less collectible

Other Brands

Gretsch (pre-Baldwin):

• 1955-1967: Peak value years

• 6120 Chet Atkins: Highly collectible

• White Falcon: Premium vintage model

Rickenbacker:

• 1960s examples: Most collectible period

• 4001 Bass: Vintage examples valuable

• 360/12 twelve-string: Associated with Beatles/Byrds

Guild:

• 1950s-1960s American-made: Quality vintage period

• Starfire series: Collectible semi-hollow models

Real Case Studies: When Dating Matters

Case Study 1: The One-Year Difference That Matters Enormously

The Call: David from Michigan inherited his uncle's "1960 Les Paul." He wanted to sell it and researched that 1960 Les Pauls were valuable instruments.

Initial Photos: Photos showed a cherry sunburst Les Paul with faded finish (honey burst appearance).

Our Immediate Question: 1960 vs. 1959 Les Pauls look nearly identical but have substantial value differences. We needed to date it precisely.

Serial Number:

• Stamped on headstock: "9 2847"

• This number range is 1959, NOT 1960

• David's uncle had been told "1960" by someone years ago

Cross-Referencing: We needed to confirm with other dating methods:

Factory Order Number (FON):

• Found inside control cavity: "A 3891"

• "A" prefix = 1959 (late production)

• Confirms 1959

Pot Codes:

• All four pots: 137-59XX codes (1959, various weeks)

• Consistent with late 1959 manufacture

• Latest pot week 33 (mid-August)

• Guitar completed late 1959

Neck Date:

• Pencil mark on neck heel: "10-59"

• October 1959

• Perfectly consistent with serial and pots

PAF Pickups:

• Original with stickers intact

• DC resistance consistent with 1959

• Correct construction

Conclusion: 1959 Les Paul Standard, not 1960

Value Impact: David's assumption based on "1960" dating was significantly lower than the actual value of a properly authenticated 1959 example. The accurate dating revealed the guitar was even more valuable than he'd believed.

Outcome: We made a premium offer for the properly authenticated 1959. David was stunned—he'd almost accepted a significantly lower offer from another buyer based on the "1960" dating.

Lesson: One year difference on 1950s Gibson Les Pauls = dramatic value difference. Always verify with multiple dating methods.

Case Study 2: The "1958" That Was Actually 1963

The Call: Robert called about his "1958 Gibson Les Paul Custom" in black that he wanted to sell.

Our Concern: Les Paul Customs weren't made 1958-1960—production stopped in 1960 and resumed in 1968. Something was wrong with his date.

Investigation:

Serial Number:

• Number on headstock: "138XXX"

• This number actually indicates 1963, not 1958

• Robert had misread or been misinformed

Clarification:

• Guitar was 1963 SG Custom (not Les Paul Custom)

• SG body, not Les Paul body

• Black finish led to "Les Paul Custom" confusion

• Still valuable but very different guitar

Pot Codes:

• 137-6315 (week 15 of 1963)

• Confirmed 1963 manufacture

Value Reality: Robert had inflated expectations based on believing he had a 1958 Les Paul Custom. The actual 1963 SG Custom was worth significantly less than his assumption.

Outcome: We offered fair market value for the 1963 SG Custom in his guitar's condition. Robert was disappointed but appreciated accurate information.

Lesson: Know what model you have AND when it was made. Les Paul Customs and SG Customs are different instruments from different eras.

Case Study 3: The Two-Tone Stratocaster Revelation

The Call: Susan from Ohio called about a Stratocaster she inherited. She said, "It's probably from the 1960s based on the serial number."

Serial Number Check:

• Serial on neck plate: "35XXX"

• This number = 1959, not generic "1960s"

• Pre-1960 = significant value premium

Neck Date Confirmation:

• Pencil mark on neck butt: "7-59"

• July 1959

• Confirms pre-1960

The Critical Detail: Photos showed two-tone sunburst (brown and yellow, no red)—Susan didn't mention this, but it's CRITICAL.

Two-tone sunburst = 1954-1958 finish

The Problem: Guitar has 1959 serial and neck date, but two-tone sunburst (which ended mid-1958).

Possible explanations:

1. Neck from 1959, body from 1958 (mis-matched parts)

2. Very late two-tone burst (transitional)

3. Refinished to two-tone (unlikely—two-tone harder to replicate)

Further Investigation:

Pot Codes:

• 304-5847 (Stackpole, week 47 of 1958)

• Very late 1958

• Body assembled late 1958

Tremolo Cavity:

• Body date penciled: "12-58"

• December 1958

Conclusion:

• Body assembled December 1958 (two-tone era ending)

• Neck dated July 1959 (stamped for later use)

• Parts assembled together late 1959/early 1960

• Transitional guitar: Late two-tone body with early 1959 neck

Value Impact: The transitional nature—late two-tone body with 1959 neck—made this particularly desirable to collectors. Transitional guitars can command premiums over standard examples.

Outcome: We purchased at a premium reflecting the documented transitional features. The two-tone sunburst on 1959-dated guitar made it particularly valuable.

Lesson: When dates don't align perfectly, transitional guitars can be MORE valuable than standard examples. Professional dating identifies these valuable anomalies.

Case Study 4: The Missing Serial Number Mystery

The Call: Tom from Pennsylvania said, "I have an old Les Paul Goldtop with no serial number. Is it fake?"

Our Response: Many legitimate vintage Gibsons have worn-away or missing serial numbers. We needed to date it other ways.

Dating Investigation:

Pot Codes (Most Reliable):

• Four pots all stamped: 137-5618, 137-5620, 137-5621, 137-5623

• All CTS manufacturer, 1956, weeks 18-23

• Tight date cluster = original electronics

• Guitar completed mid-late 1956

Pickups:

• P-90 pickups (correct for 1956)

• Black covers (correct)

• DC resistance readings consistent with mid-1950s

Bridge:

• ABR-1 Tune-o-matic without retainer wire

• Correct for 1956 (retainer wire added 1957)

Tuners:

• Kluson Deluxe single-ring

• Correct for 1956

Hardware:

• All components consistent with 1956

• Natural aging patterns appropriate

Body Construction:

• Carved maple top

• One-piece mahogany back

• 1956-appropriate construction

Finish Analysis:

• The problem: Finish was thick and glossy

• Nitrocellulose but appeared refinished

• Some overspray in control cavity

• UV light showed modern lacquer

Conclusion:

• 1956 Les Paul Goldtop (confirmed from all components)

• Refinished (explains missing serial number—sanded away)

• All original components except finish

Value Impact: The refinishing significantly reduced the guitar's value compared to an all-original example, but the 1956 Les Paul Goldtop with all original components still had substantial collectible value.

Outcome: We made an offer appropriate for a refinished 1956 Goldtop. Tom was disappointed the refinishing reduced value so much, but appreciated knowing what he had.

Lesson: Missing serial numbers don't mean fake guitars. Multiple dating methods can confirm authenticity even without serial. However, missing serial often indicates refinishing, which significantly reduces value.

When to Seek Professional Authentication

Dating guitars accurately requires expertise—knowing when to get professional help protects your interests.

Get Professional Authentication IMMEDIATELY If:

You have any potentially high-value guitar:

1. Gibson Les Paul with carved top and cherry/gold finish (any 1950s-1960s)

   • 1958-1960 "burst" = among most valuable guitars ever made

   • 1952-1957 Goldtop = highly valuable vintage guitars

   • ONE YEAR difference = substantial value variation

2. Fender with serial number under 100,000

   • Pre-CBS era = highly valuable

   • Custom colors = dramatically more valuable

   • Year-specific dating critical

3. Pre-war Martin acoustic (before 1946)

   • Herringbone D-28 = extremely valuable

   • D-45 = among most valuable acoustics

   • OM models = highly collectible

4. Flying V, Explorer, or other rare Gibson

   • Original Korina = extraordinarily valuable

   • Even reissues = very valuable

5. Any guitar you believe might be worth significant money

Get Professional Help If:

You encounter dating inconsistencies:

• Serial number doesn't match other date indicators

• Pot codes conflict with serial number by years

• Components seem from different eras

• Finish appears refinished but seller claims original

• Neck date and serial number disagree significantly

You're considering selling:

• Need accurate valuation for fair pricing

• Buyers will question dates on valuable guitars

• Professional authentication adds credibility

• Documentation supports your asking price

You're considering insurance:

• High-value guitars need scheduled coverage

• Insurance companies require professional appraisals

• Need accurate dating for proper coverage

• Documentation protects claim process

What Professional Authentication Provides

Comprehensive analysis:

• Physical inspection of all components

• UV light testing for refinishing

• Serial number and FON research

• Pot code verification

• Hardware authentication

• Pickup analysis (resistance testing for PAFs)

• Construction feature verification

• Finish originality assessment

Written documentation:

• Complete specification list

• Date determination with confidence level

• Originality assessment

• Condition grading

• Current market value

• Comparable sales data

• Professional photographs

Authentication benefits:

• Protects against fakes and forgeries

• Maximizes resale value

• Provides insurance documentation

• Gives peace of mind

• Creates permanent record

Edgewater Guitars Dating and Authentication Services

We specialize in dating and authenticating vintage American guitars throughout the Midwest.

Our Expertise

20+ years authenticating vintage guitars:

• Gibson Les Paul and SG specialists

• Pre-CBS Fender authentication experts

• Martin acoustic dating specialists

• Serial number research and cross-referencing

• Pot code analysis and electronics dating

• Finish originality assessment with UV light

• Historical production records research

Our Dating Process

Step 1: Free Preliminary Assessment

• Submit photos and information through our contact form

• Include serial numbers, pot codes (if visible), any stamps

• Describe any known history

• Response within 24-48 hours with initial assessment

Step 2: Detailed Research

• Serial number and FON research in manufacturer databases

• Cross-reference dates with production specifications

• Identify transitional features or anomalies

• Determine date range and confidence level

Step 3: In-Person Authentication (For Valuable Guitars)

• Physical inspection of guitar at your location

• UV light testing for refinish detection

• Pot code verification and electronics analysis

• Pickup authentication (PAF testing for Gibsons)

• Hardware and component verification

• Construction feature analysis

• Complete photographic documentation

Step 4: Written Authentication Report

• Complete dating analysis with all methods used

• Confidence level in date determination

• Specification list and feature documentation

• Originality assessment (all-original vs. modifications)

• Current fair market valuation

• Comparable sales data

• Professional photographs

Why Choose Edgewater for Dating Services

We actually buy guitars:

• Unlike appraisal-only services, we purchase instruments

• Our valuations reflect true market value

• Accountability—we stand behind our assessments

• Consistently pay premium prices for authenticated guitars

Multiple verification methods:

• Never rely on serial numbers alone

• Always cross-reference with pot codes, stamps, features

• UV light testing standard on valuable guitars

• Comprehensive rather than cursory

Honesty about uncertainty:

• We tell you confidence level in dating

• Acknowledge when dates can't be pinpointed exactly

• Explain dating challenges transparently

• Don't make up precise dates when evidence is unclear

No pressure to sell:

• Authentication service available separately

• No obligation to accept purchase offers

• Happy to provide information to help you decide

• Educational approach—we want you informed

Service Area

We serve the entire Midwest:

• Ohio: Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati, Toledo, Akron, Dayton

• Michigan: Detroit, Grand Rapids, Ann Arbor, Lansing, Flint

• Pennsylvania: Pittsburgh, Erie, Allentown, Harrisburg

• Indiana: Indianapolis, Fort Wayne, South Bend, Evansville

• West Virginia: Charleston, Huntington, Morgantown, Parkersburg

For exceptionally valuable guitars, we can arrange travel to additional locations.

Frequently Asked Questions About Dating Guitars

Can I date my guitar just from the serial number?

Usually no—serial numbers alone are insufficient for accurate dating:

Why serial numbers aren't enough:

• Overlapping number ranges across years

• Inconsistent application by manufacturers

• Parts numbered before assembly (months later)

• Reused numbers in different eras

• Out-of-sequence numbering common

What you need:

• Serial number PLUS pot codes

• Serial number PLUS neck/body stamps

• Serial number PLUS construction features

• Multiple methods for confirmation

Exception: Some modern guitars (1990s+) have more reliable serial systems that can narrow dates precisely.

My serial number doesn't match online databases. Is it fake?

Not necessarily—several legitimate explanations:

1. Transitional period between numbering systems

2. Special order or custom shop guitar

3. Prototype or pre-production example

4. Database incomplete or incorrect

5. Foreign market guitar with different system

Red flags that suggest fake:

• Serial number font doesn't match known examples

• Location wrong for claimed manufacturer

• Number format inconsistent with ANY known system

• Other features clearly wrong for claimed year

• Too-good-to-be-true scenario

Best approach: Cross-reference serial with other dating methods. If pot codes, construction, and features all consistent with serial number era, guitar likely authentic even if database doesn't list exact number.

How much does accurate dating matter for value?

Enormously—especially for vintage guitars:

Value impact examples:

1959 vs. 1961 Gibson Les Paul: Dating difference creates dramatic value variation—potentially the difference between an extremely valuable collector's piece and a valuable vintage guitar.

1964 vs. 1966 Fender Stratocaster: Pre-CBS (1964) vs. CBS-era (1966) represents substantial value difference due to collector preference for pre-CBS instruments.

1968 vs. 1970 Martin D-28: Brazilian rosewood (1968) vs. Indian rosewood (1970) creates significant value difference based on wood species and collector demand.

For modern guitars: Dating matters less—value difference between 2015 and 2020 model minimal.

Can pot codes be wrong or faked?

Pot codes CAN be wrong, but rarely:

Legitimate issues:

• Pots replaced during repairs (shows different dates)

• Some cheap guitars used salvaged/surplus pots from different years

• Very occasionally pot date codes stamped incorrectly at factory

Faking pot codes is difficult:

• Requires sourcing period-correct pots with right codes

• Expensive and time-consuming for forgers

• Easier to forge serial numbers than pot codes

• Multiple pots all need consistent dates

Red flags:

• Pots dated AFTER guitar's claimed year = replaced or fake guitar

• Mixed decades on pots (1959, 1959, 1979, 1959) = partial replacement

• Pot codes don't match ANY known manufacturer format = suspicious

Why pot codes are reliable:

• Inside guitar, harder to access and fake

• Multiple pots provide cross-checking

• Forgers usually focus on visible serial numbers, ignore pots

• Consistent pot dates from correct manufacturer = strong authentication

My guitar has '00000000' as the serial number. Is it fake?

If it's a 1975-1977 Gibson, this is NORMAL:

Gibson used transfer/decal serial numbers 1975-1977 but had production problems:

• Many left factory with "00000000" placeholder

• Some with "XXXXXXXX"

• Some completely blank

• This was a known factory defect

Your guitar is likely authentic if:

• All other features consistent with mid-1970s Gibson

• Pot codes show 1975-1977 dates

• Construction features correct (volute, etc.)

• Hardware appropriate for era

Can still be dated:

• Use pot codes as primary method

• Body/neck stamps may be present

• Construction features narrow down year

• These guitars are authentic despite useless serial

Should I remove my guitar's neck to check the date stamp?

Only if you're experienced with guitar maintenance:

Risks of neck removal:

• Potentially valuable guitar could be damaged

• Neck alignment can shift

• Finish can chip at neck joint

• Screws can strip if over-tightened on reassembly

• Truss rod adjustment may be needed after

When it's worth the risk:

• Guitar of moderate value (lower stakes)

• You have guitar maintenance experience

• Fender-style bolt-on neck (easier and safer)

• Other dating methods inconclusive

When to avoid:

• Guitar potentially very valuable

• Set-neck guitar (Gibson-style) - neck removal destructive

• You lack experience

• Other dating methods already provide good information

Professional alternative:

• Vintage guitar specialists can safely remove necks

• Know proper procedures

• Have tools to prevent damage

• Include in authentication service

Can I date my guitar by the sound or feel?

No—subjective qualities don't reliably date guitars:

Why sound doesn't date guitars:

• Tone depends on many factors (wood, electronics, strings, setup)

• Modern guitars can sound "vintage"

• Vintage guitars sound different from each other

• Modifications change tone

• Setup and condition dramatically affect sound

Why feel doesn't date guitars:

• Neck profiles varied within eras

• Individual guitars felt different even when new

• Setup changes affect feel more than age

• Modern guitars can replicate vintage feel

• Wear patterns develop on any guitar over time

What CAN indicate age:

• Weight (old-growth wood was lighter)

• Genuine wear patterns in logical locations

• Finish characteristics (checking on nitro)

• Hardware patina and corrosion patterns

Bottom line: Use objective, verifiable dating methods. Don't trust "it feels like a 1959."

Contact Edgewater Guitars for Professional Dating Services

If you need to know exactly how old your guitar is:

📧 Email Dating Request (Free Preliminary)

Submit photos through our online form:

• Include serial number photos (all locations)

• Control cavity photos showing pot codes

• Any visible stamps or marks

• Describe known history

• All angles of guitar

Response time: 24-48 hours with preliminary date assessment

📞 Phone Consultation (Free)

Call (440) 219-3607:

• Describe what you see on your guitar

• We'll guide you through finding date clues

• Get immediate preliminary guidance

• Schedule in-person authentication if needed

Available: Monday-Saturday, 9am-6pm EST

🏢 In-Person Authentication

For potentially valuable guitars:

• We travel throughout Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Indiana, West Virginia

• Complete authentication with UV light testing

• Professional photographic documentation

• Written dating report and appraisal

• Immediate purchase offers for guitars we buy

Typical appointment: 30-60 minutes for thorough evaluation

Free Resources

Learn more about dating and authenticating guitars:

• Gibson Serial Number Lookup Tool - Comprehensive database 1902-present

• Fender Serial Number Lookup Tool - Complete dating guide with neck date decoder

• How to Tell If a Guitar is Valuable - Value assessment guide

• What Guitar Do I Have? - Complete identification guide

• Sunburst Guitar Identification - Dating by finish characteristics

Final Thoughts on Dating Guitars

Accurately dating a guitar requires detective work. Serial numbers provide starting points, but pot codes, stamps, construction features, and hardware details complete the story. For vintage guitars where one year can mean dramatic value differences, professional authentication isn't optional—it's essential.

Key takeaways:

✓ Never trust serial numbers alone—always cross-reference ✓ Pot codes are the most reliable dating method for 1950s-1970s guitars ✓ Multiple dating methods increase confidence ✓ One year can mean substantial value difference on vintage guitars ✓ Missing serial numbers don't mean fake guitars ✓ Professional authentication protects your investment ✓ Transitional guitars with unusual features can be MORE valuable

Whether you've inherited a guitar, found one in storage, or want to understand what you own, accurate dating is the foundation of understanding its value.

Don't guess—know for certain.

Contact Edgewater Guitars Today:

📧 Submit Photos for Free Dating Assessment
📞 (440) 219-3607
📍 Serving: Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Indiana, West Virginia

About Edgewater Guitars:

Edgewater Guitars specializes in dating and authenticating vintage American guitars throughout the Midwest. Our team has over 20 years of combined experience in vintage guitar authentication, with extensive knowledge of Gibson, Fender, and Martin dating systems. We use comprehensive analysis including serial numbers, FON research, pot code verification, UV light testing, and construction feature analysis to accurately date guitars. We've authenticated hundreds of high-value instruments and helped clients avoid costly misdating mistakes. We consistently pay premium prices for authenticated vintage guitars because our dating expertise allows us to recognize and properly value guitars others might misprice.

Last Updated: January 2025

Edgewater Guitars is an independent vintage guitar buyer. We are not affiliated with Gibson, Fender, Martin, or any guitar manufacturer. All brand names are used for identification purposes only.